Small La Laguna

Getting here to our new location for our final week of beach was a comedy of errors, it seems. Things started out well - we were picked up even before 10 am by our driver in the nice big Toyota van with great air-conditioning and we set off for the Sofitel where the other couple who were to go with us were ostensibly waiting.

That didn't take too long, maybe 20 minutes - I had wondered why we were picked up so early since the story was that the couple would be ready at 11 am. Well, first we had to go through hotel car security and then weren't allowed to wait in front of the hotel. Security was serious - we had a sniffer dog to check us out. But we were shunted off to a parking lot where we were left by the driver - with the air-con on, at least - and were left there for about 30 minutes before he came back without them.

So they were at the airport? He had gotten a call from his office. Off we went to the airport where we parked again, and the guy checked - no passengers for him there. So back to Sofitel - and just before we arrived there he got another phone call - and only two blocks from the hotel we made a U-turn and went back to the airport - to another terminal (there are 3). More phone calls - I even got to talk to Katherine at our hotel who explained things a little and said she would make amends when we arrived.

Finally at the second terminal we found the couple - who were Americans here to dive at El Galleon (a present for Dave's 60th birthday from his wife Karen - nice - my 60th is coming up this year - wonder what I'll get?

So we spent almost two hours in the van before even finding Dave and Karen. There had obviously been lots of crossed wires. They were fun companions for the travel though and apparently Karen is going to be spending her time here knitting, so we can talk about that - lol - as well as hear about Dave's dive adventures.

The drive down to Batangas took another two hours - mostly on a good toll road so except for the bottle-necks of the toll booths, we made good time. Until we arrived in Batangas where it seemed every vehicle in the city was on the road - it was really a jam. Turns out one of the bridges that crosses whatever water course we had to get over, is out so everyone is channeled through the same route.

At the private pier where the hotels for Puerto Galera/Sabang moor their boats, we were ushered to our very large 50 seater boat - all four of us! The ride over took an hour through some decent swells - thank heaven the outriggers are flexible because they took lots of stress. At one point I was moved to the other side of the boat to help balance it out and then at another point a big wave breached the plastic water screen and drenched my shirt and pants. The sailors were quite apologetic and immediately came over to swab me, and the cushion I was sitting on, down. No other mishaps although when we arrived at the beach it took the pilot quite awhile to maneuver the boat into the wharf.

Our hotel, El Galleon, has a small pool and our room was right outside it - if someone had jumped in we might have been swamped there too since it was a foot lower than the pool. It was a nice room - smaller than expected but comfortable, and with hot water in the sink as well as in the shower (that's a luxury in this country). We relaxed there until the couple in the room above ours started moving the furniture around - maybe they are amateur interior decorators. It was quite noisy and accompanied by an odd wailing tone.

Later we realized that the couple was having a little tiff - this is an American man and his Filipina partner. She appeared to be in a little snit - cried, whined, went off in a huff - at one point the guy said sotto voce, "It's going to be a long night!" Geordie wasn't too thrilled with the sound effects so while I sat drinking a beer, he went off to the hotel desk and when he came back he announced that we were moved. He had been gone about 10 minutes which I thought was a little long, but in that time he had been offered an upstairs room and had moved all the stuff. Now we get to be the people who are redecorating the room for those below us.

Today it poured rain in the early morning - I slept in quite late, so missed the serious rain that G sat through wondering if I was ever going to arrive so he could have his breakfast with me. He is a patient man. The weather is really nice now though and since we seem to be in the shadow of a hill, it's actually cooler in our room at night so after awhile we didn't even need the air-con. That's nice.

Today we went exploring a little and found out that we can get a direct boat/bus transfer to Manila at a sensible hour - 9:15, for only about $7.00 for two. About a ninety percent saving from the hotel transfer costs. Guess we should be sensible and take it. It even gets us to the area near where we are staying so we can walk to our hotel.

Back in Manila two nights ago we had a great time with John (Vancouver), his good friend Gary from Manila, and James from LA/Mobile, Alabama. We ate in a really good Filipino restaurant - some of the best filipino food we've had on our trip. And so close to our hotel. Then we walked to the gay area of Malate and had a wonderful evening sitting outside the O bar with lot of great people watching and laughs with our friends. It was a late evening for us and made it hard for us to crawl out of bed at 8 am so we could have breakfast and get ready for that 10 am pickup.

We are back in Manila in a week - so we'll have to get in touch with Gary again - John will be flying home by then. It's a Saturday night so we could have a great time with all the people hanging out in our hotel neighbourhood. We will look forward to it.

Hey, You! Out of the Water!

Yesterday I got to go into the water at Boracay for the first time on this part of the trip. And the first time in over two weeks. Geordie gave me a clean bill of health even though there was still a scab on part of my scratch wound at my ankle. It was lovely to be there with my brand new swim goggles so I could finally do a little length swimming too - to get ready for our return home in February.

Oh that things would stay the same! I had not shared with Geordie my little niggling worry that there was something going on with the area where I suffered when I was in Thailand - the time that I rode on an elephant in agony because I didn't want to spoil our holiday and the time I had to go to hospital in Chiang Mai for an operation, and a healing process that took a year. But last night I decided that I had better let him know. Things weren't looking too bad but we decided that, yes, I should go back to the medical clinic and have an expert look.

So today we walked up the path to the clinic. Since it was Sunday the doctor was not in, but she was called by telephone and was there to see me in 10 minutes. This woman was not the child that I was expecting from my last experience. It appears that she is in fact the regular doctor and the two who were there the last time were just filling in for her for 10 days.

She invited me in, got me to get my clothes off and examined me. At first she didn't see the problem but I made her look more closely and she was able to determine that my diagnosis was correct and indeed my old problem had resurfaced. But, the good news was that this time I hadn't waited so long to seek help so the doctor felt certain that we had caught it in time.

Then she did her prescription. First an anti-biotic. Then the pronouncement - NO SWIMMING! Sigh and double sigh - what's the point of being at a beach if you can't go in the water. Then she announced a few more things - a high-fiber diet, at least 2 liters of water a day, no alcohol. Hmmm, I think she had noticed my weight and decided to be pro-active and has put me on a diet. Nothing to do with my new infection at all. Seems sneaky to me!

But she was really wonderful. We laughed a lot. We had a good conversation - she was on an Alaska Cruise recently that had landed in Victoria, BC, she was thrilled that we were a married couple. We discussed finance - I gave her a couple of pointers so she could retire early like we did and then when we were saying good-bye she hugged me and then Geordie. Now when was the last time your doctor hugged you good-bye?

I have to go back to see her on Wednesday to see my progress, so I'm expecting another hug then. Maybe it's part of her therapy - hugs are said to help with healing, so I'm expecting a quick recovery and the opportunity to get back in the water by the time we get to the beach in Sabang, Puerto Galera.

Back on the Beach

We finally left Siquijor four days ago taking the ferry to Cebu where we stayed two nights then flew to Kalibo on the island of Panay, then took the air-con van to Caticlan and finally the little boat to Boracay. Because we couldn't quite get the organization of flights to get us to Palawan we decided the least we could do was come back here to the nicest beach we've found on our travels.

It was like homecoming for us - as we walked down the beach we were greeted by all the people we'd said good bye to 3 weeks ago and welcomed back with open arms. People here really are friendly and genuinely welcoming. We are at the same place we stayed for the last 12 days we were here, and are quite comfortable. The beach is as nice as we remembered although I can't yet enter the water. I haven't mentioned that I scratched my leg somehow about two weeks ago and haven't been able to swim again, because it too got infected. I thought I was safe swimming in the pool at Coral Cay, but I was a little too cocky. The pool. water is mostly salt water pumped in from the ocean so whatever is in the water affected my leg. I'm taking care, it's almost fully healed but I don't dare go in until I'm certain it's complete. I think it may take a couple more days. Sigh.

We are off to lunch shortly with folks we met at Coral Cay. Charlotte and Anders and their their very young daughter are staying a long walking distance from us although on the same beach, so we are going to catch a tricycle on the main road to get there. White Beach where we are staying is 4 kilometers long which explains why we are so hot by the time we get to D'Mall where our favourite restaurant is. In order to look less than soaking wet, the tricycle makes eminent sense. And it's cheap enough.

We do have good news of a different kind. Our friend James from LA is in Thailand right now and is flying to Manila on the 21st of the month. Because we haven't seen him for some time and it's so close, we have rearranged our schedule again so we can meet up with him in Manila for at least a day. We are going to fly to Manila early then head to Tagaytay which is a community about 2 1/2 hours from Manila near a non-erupting volcano. We will spend several days there and then head back to Manila the same day James arrives there to spend two nights before going off to Puerto Galera and our last stint on the beach before we finish in Manila for the trip home to Vancouver and the Olympic games which we will watch on TV.

We look forward to your messages both on the email and on the blog. Do continue to keep in touch. We really do miss you all.

Christmas Is Coming

We are still in Siquijor although we have moved resorts. Our present location is Casa de La Playa which is about 35 km north from our last place. Our room is on the cliff top - in a garden. We have a distant view of the ocean and can walk down 50 steps to the beach for a little sunning. The gardens are pleasant - with orchids in one area, and other flowering plants we don't even know the names of in other areas.

This resort is cheaper than the last place, but it means we don't have air-conditioning or a beach location. You gets what you pays for! We were scheduled to spend about 9 days here, but we are going to move back to Coral Cay on December 27th. After one day here we realized that we would miss our beach view and our air-con, but we had already paid a deposit for three nights. We decided that it would be odd to move on Christmas Day, so gave ourselves two more nights - of course vacancies at the Coral Cay were also not available without our moving cottages three times if we came back early so we just compromised.

The resort here is not as efficient as it might be. So far at almost every meal there has been some error in the order. A case in point - this morning both Geordie and I chose French Toast with Syrup because we thought that would be easy and safe. Margin for error tiny. So - we heard the kitchen beating eggs then after 10 minutes, the young waitress arrived with one plate of French Toast - no syrup in evidence, but G thought it must have been on the toast.

After five minutes of him eating, we heard the sound of eggs being beaten again - then 10 mintues later, the watress arrived with my meal which was oddly covered in some kind of dark syrup - I thought molasses, but asked anyway. The answer? It's syrup. What kind of syrup? Chocolate! (That wasn't mentioned on the menu.) The litany of errors continues - we have to order our dinners in the early afternoon since food is frozen and needs to be defrosted. I ordered A fried chicken breast last night for dinner - it arrived as a n overcooked chicken leg! Garnish? some cucumber. That's it, folks. I had ordered french fries too - but they took another five mintues to arrive.

And we ordered a bottle of wine last night. First the waitress told us it wasn't cold so did we want ice. We decided on an ice bucket. Five minutes later the owner came out and told us the wine wasn't cold and did we want ice or to have it put in the fridge? I voted for the fridge for 10 minutes. Two minutes later the food arrived. We ate it. Then we asked for the wine - 15 minutes later. It was delivered, without a corkscrew. We asked for one and waited. 10 minutes went by. I got up and asked for the corkscrew directly. The waitress brought it and asked if she or I would open it. I decided that I might be the better choice.

So she went off and I used the corkscrew, inserting it into the cork and attempting to pull it out. The plastic legs(?) of the winged corkscrew bent dangerously but didn't pull the cork at all. So we had to ask for another corkscrew and this time were given an all metal winged one which miraculously pulled the cork. So a half hour or more after eating, we finally drank the bottle of wine.

Tonight the resort is celebrating Christmas - with a buffet dinner. We are guessing that at least that means they can't screw up an order. The main piece de resistance will be Lechon, a large pig roasted on a spit or in a very large oven we are guessing. There is also music - featuing Siquijor's version of Stevie Wonder apparently. Most of the guests are German so I'm expecting wonderful renditions of Stille Nacht (Silent Night) and O Tannenbaum (O Christmas Tree).

I will not go on - it seems uncharitable at Christmas - and we are staying on for three more nights - I guess we are masochists. We are on the island until January 3 after which we are planning to head for Palawan, the spur of islands which head left from the main islands pointing to Borneo. We have not found great sounding accomodationt there that we can afford so we have a Plan B in place - we have emailed Marzon Resort in Boracay, and if things don't work out, we will head there for the last week or so of our trip to enjoy the beach - hey, maybe I'll do that open water dive course.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone.

Coral Cay

As Geordie said on a recent email we arrived at Coral Cay Resort on Siquijor two nights ago and are now enjoying our little house on the beach.

It really is a lovely hut. Here's my only whine of the day though - the beach is so so shallow that when the tide goes out it's about 100 yards to the water. And out there the water goes out for yards and yards more, not even up to our knees. Of course the pool was supposed to be our saving but as some of you know, it's under repair. The good news? Word is that they are going to start filling it today! Yay. We will be at Coral Cay for a week and on December 22 move to another resort called Casa de la Playa. That's where we will celebrate Christmas and New Years.

As you can imagine there isn't a lot to do. The island of Siquijor is it's own province in the Philippines, but the coastal road around the island is only 72 km long! Not so big. There are caves inland and this is also an island of magicians. In fact some people in the Philippines refuse to come here for that reason. We have not seen any sign of magic but we may take a tour of the island soon and see what we can find.

Yesterday we walked to the little town 2 km from our resort to check things out. It has a public market down by the beach where people are selling fish and vegetables. On the road we also found a little park which has a natural spring that the townspeople have turned into a swimming hole. The water spills out into a stream which meanders to the beach. Along the stream we found women washing their clothes and children enjoying the cool water. But no - no pictures.

What we are planning to do other than walk is read a lot. Here is a look at some of our reading material and Geordie ensconced in his seat of splendour under the ceiling fan in our living room.

Yesterday while we were at JJ's Resort nearby I found an illegal copy of Dan Brown's The Lost Symbol in perfect condition on their bookshelf. I know it's illegal because it's a photocopy. We saw many of these photocopied books while we were in Viet Nam where it seems everyone sells them willy-nilly. Not one to pass up an opportunity I asked if I could have the book and the staff said yes. So I took it back to the resort, finished the last 200 pages of Pillars of the Earth then stayed up till midnight to finish Dan's book, another 500 pages. Gee, I do hope our 25 books are enough to keep us going. (No matter, our own resort has a very large collection of paperbacks to pick from too.)

Back to Dan Brown. I am at least impressed that in his latest book he compresses time even more than in his earlier books. In those the time frame of the book is about 24 hours which is pretty impressive when you realize how far the hero and his lovely helpmate have to travel during that time. But in this book he manages to compress the action into 10 hours - and still manages to get in lots of action. At least he divides the action among several of the characters so that things are happening simultaneously. I wonder if he'll get it down to five hours in the next one. And before you know it he'll be writing "One Minute Mysteries".I think I'll post a few more pictures and let pictures speak louder than words for you. Click on the pictures to see them bigger.

1.Oceanjet ferry to Dumaguete 2. Christmas Decorations 3. Orchids of Siquijor

1. Dancing and Ukelele 2. Nigel and Proney 3. Bablayon Church interior

San Juan del Sur

Let's see if I can write a short message... Hah! We arrived in San Juan del Sur yesterday and spent one night at a mid-range hotel which was comfortable if a little too cool because I set the air con on high and didn't change it when I realized we were freezing. It was an easier trip than most - a bus to Managua, a taxi across town, and then harassed by crazy bus people who all wanted us to go on their bus. Somehow we lucked out. We let a guy lead us to his bus which was a mini-bus, not a van, and paid for our trip to Rivas where we were going to transfer and it left two minutes later. That has happened a lot lately. When we got to Rivas the bus guy asked where we were going, and when we told him San Juan he gave us the good news that the bus continued on there with a side trip to San Jorge, where the ferry to the island of Ometepe leaves from. If we'd been going there we would have been delivered directly to the ferry.

So, lucky us, we stayed on the bus and got here in good time. Found our hotel, two blocks from the beach, which we had booked in advance and found out that there was a power outage so there was no air-con or light, nor could we check in yet because that couldn't happen till 2 o'clock. No problem, we went for a fish lunch - fresh from the bay I think. It was wonderful. Then we lazed around, found an icecream place and had a cone, then finally went back to our hotel and checked in. Nice big room, two single beds, clean, and just fine, and with two windows for a little breeze. No complaints, until the evening when I set that aircon after the electricity came on. We had a cool shower in the afternoon, then slept in the heat. Not bad.

This morning we went around looking for a cheaper hotel. Found a few, but they weren't great - bathroom outside, or a little untidy, no water in the little pool, etc. Then we decided to ask about the fancy place across from the beach. After chatting and negotiating a little we now have a room that almost everyone on our reading list would be happy to stay in. We have a huge room, two double beds, a fridge, a microwave, tv and cable, nice bathroom and a covered patio with a direct view to the beach and patio furniture, the patio is almost as big as our room, and the sun sets right in the center of the bay, so we will have wonderful sunset viewing. The only catch is we have to stay a week and we are paying more - $75.00 yes folks, we are paying the big bucks for a little luxury. It's a big change from our usual places, but we figured we've earned it with all the money we've saved in the cheap places. Oh and a full breakfast is included, as well as a pool that we can cool down in when things get too hot after a walk on the beach.

We're happy - although Geordie thinks I should book a week of Spanish school since there are a couple of recommended ones here. But I'm so lazy - I don't want to study.

Playa El Tunco still

Today was the day we were going to move on, but a couple of days ago we convinced ourselves that we didn´t need to go anywhere. The Tortuga Surf Lodge is very small, only five rooms, but what a great group of people we´ve been hanging out with. Two of them turned out to be people we met at La Casa del Mundo on Lake Atitlan, and another two were a couple from Denmark. The last group is two guys from the US who are great to hang out with too.

It was nice to have the Danish couple, they turned out to be doctors which was great when I came down with a bad case of turista which had me hugging a toilet bowl at 2 am on our second day there. They were able to provide some good replacement drinks so I spent the next day drinking two liters of water mixed with the rehydration salts and feeling much better. I have no idea what caused the malady - the day it happened I´d had only breakfast, then a fresh coconut and for dinner only two ravioli, although by that time I was already feeling ill.

No matter, I´m great now. The reason for the odd meal that day was that Dean, one of the Americans invited us to join him on a tour of the area with a local guy who was his surf instructor. We went down to a couple of beach areas and then he asked if we wanted to go to a National Park nearby, which we agreed to. It turned out to be a hiking park, so with a guide leading us we were taken on a two kilometer tour, which went first to a natural cave with resident bats, then up a hill to a lovely viewpoint then down into a river basin and back to the start. The walk led through two totally different environments. On the first half, on the east side of the hill the trees were leafless and spare, very dry. These trees leave their leaves in the "summer" which is now in El Salvador. The other side of the hill is bright with lots of green vegetation and huge trees, which keep their leaves all year round. Very unique landscapes.

Last night we had a great meal at our place. Marko, the guy from Holland whom we´d met before, made a great barbecue with help from Dean. I got to fold the large foil dishes to roast the vegetables. We had local sausages and some deep dark tuna which Marco had bought in the market that day - two huge fish for five dollars each plus a dollar for cleaning them. Quite the deal. He made the barbecue sauce for the fish with lots of garlic, ginger, soy and olive oil and a lashing or two of Marie Sharpe´s BEWARE hot sauce which contains a warning not to use it to play tricks on the weak or elderly. Delicioso.

So we have decided to hang on here for a few more days. There´s no rush. Marco and Anna, Dean and Gordon leave on Sunday and Monday, the Danes left this morning, so we will have to expect new guests to arrive to entertain us. So far we are the only non surfers around. This is a great surfing beach and there are lots of young guys and women with incredibly toned and tanned bodies hanging out waiting for the next great wave, so we expect to see the three couples replaced very quickly. Let´s hope they are as much fun to hang out with.

As you can see there´s not much to write about. We are still lazing around the pool, eating fish, sleeping, reading - what else do we need?

Playa El Tunco - by bus

We were on the move today. Four buses! We left Juayua at 8:30 am for the first trek to Sonsonate, about an hour. Then we waited about a half hour for a non-existent bus to San Salvador. Well the sign in the terminal had the right number and the right destination, but no buses came, and since they are supposed to be every 10 minutes, I finally figured out that there must be a problem and asked the young woman sitting next to me at the bus stop if she was awaiting the same bus. Oh, no, the bus was somewhere over there, outside the terminal.

We walked over to the street, saw no sign of a bus, but then I caught sight of another fancy building. Checked it out and discovered it was the special terminal for buses to San Salvador only. Duh! That wasn´t in the guide book. So we arrived across the street and there was a bus just loading - an especial which costs more and is theoretically safer because it doesn´t stop to pick up fares. (Hah! It did so.) But it was air conditioned and there was a seat for each of us, no sharing tiny school bus seats.

The ride to San Salvador took an hour and a half and pulled into the terminal Occidente. Luckily this is where we were to catch our next bus although the guide book said we had to go outside the front of the building to catch it. We did that, and saw no evidence of our bus, so asked someone this time, who directed us across the street and up, next to that girl with the pink shirt. We were also told it was bus 22 not 102, but in fact the 102 pulled up and we all got on to go to La Libertad. That trip took about 40 minutes - not bad, although it was getting hotter now. About half way there we could already see the ocean. Yay!

In La Libertad we got out, walked down the street, around the corner and found the bus to the beaches. We had to get on through the back emergency door, because there were too many people at the front for us to manage with. No problem. This bus took only about 15 minutes to get us to Playa El Tunco, our destination, and a little walk down towards the beach, and a side street and we were at Tortuga Surf Lodge and our nice little room on the second floor, bathroom outside the door, but private, and a big terrace with two tables and a hammock and no other rooms so I guess we can choose the table we want.

Entire length of journey: 4 hours. No of buses: 4, price: $5.40 for two people. Not bad.

Now we are going to hang out for awhile. Not much to do I don´t think, except sun, swim in the pool, maybe paddle in the ocean, (there are lots of surfers here, so may not be a good swimming beach) eat fish, sleep, relax, enjoy the air con room. Veg out.

mmmm, sounds nice.

Monterrico Lifestyle

I think we are growing used to the life in Monterrico. For the first day or two, this was just a dusty little place, with nothing happening, and no life. Now though the people are appearing - it´s as if we´ve just begun to notice them. Of course it´s because we have wandered off the beaten path and are exploring the side streets where the people actually live as opposed to seeing the area where the tourists like us hang out.

Yesterday we went on our lagoon tour through the mangroves - but we cheated. We took a sunset cruise instead of a sunrise cruise. There were still lots of birds and it was so very tranquil hanging out on a boat on our little plastic chairs while we were poled along the edges of the red mangroves. The young man with whom we had booked our tour passed us over to Rubén who was quite taciturn, but gently talked while he poled us around about the life of the mangroves. His Spanish was a little beyond me sometimes, so I just nodded, but often he was able to explain the wildlife we saw.

There were lots of tall white cranes (garzas blancas) treading carefully in the water, eyeing the area for fish to swallow. We even caught one catching a fish - an exciting moment. There were gray cranes too, and some small dark herons which sit hunched in the trees with their eyes on the water too. And there were some funny little birds, all dark, black and rufous coloured feathers who surprised as they flew with their bright yellow underwings which flashed like the wings of a grasshopper as they skipped from lily pad to grass at the edges of the mangroves. Overhead were kingfishers on the electrical wires, which made me ask myself how you put up electrical poles in amongst mangroves, which are in fact floating islands of trees which make their own land by dropping their leaves amongst their trailing roots. Not too secure for walking on, that´s for sure.

We also wandered out into a wider expanse of water, lake like in its tranquility, where we had a fine view of the two volcanoes, Agua and Pacaya. Pacaya wasn´t smoking at this time, but it´s a common occurence because it´s a very active volcano along with Fuego. Both erupt all the time, with Pacaya the one where one can climb to see the lava flow by at your feet as our Australian friends did. We know we are not in shape to climb up a lava slope with the shifting sands beneath our feet.

This morning we went out to Johnny´s Place for breakfast and had huevos rancheros - the Guatemalan version of a Mexican favorite. The difference is that the Guatemalan one is not one bit spicy. After breakfast we wandered over to their hammocks to lie in the shade under the palapas. Because of the gentle slope upwards of the beach, we could see only a long wide strip of dark sand (black sand is really dark grey) a thin strip of brilliant blue where the water stretches across the horizon and then the pale blue sky sweeping up and over us like a canopy of watered silk. Peaceful and exactly what we wanted to do right then.

As we were readying ourselves to leave three young women introduced themselves, by asking where we were from. They turned out to be from Victoria. As an aside, it´s amazing how many people think that Victoria is on Victoria Island, instead of Vancouver Island. I guess we need to do a little more tourist promotion as we go. I met a man yesterday as I was lying in the hammock at our place who told me he had been to Victoria Island and it happened just two days ago too. The man I met yesterday was Japanese, and was spending two months in Guatemala. He had already spent a month studying Spanish and insisted on speaking to me in that language, which was very good for both of us becuase we seemed to be in sync with our level of language. He was doing well, although I don´t think he once used the past tense - that´s the tense I think Spanish teachers should start with - really, we talk about what we did far more than what we are doing.

After our sojourn under the shade we went off to check out the turtle, caiman, iguana sanctuary. It´s a little ramshackle but they are doing their bit to protect the sea turtles, by digging up their eggs as soon as they are laid and taking them back to be buried in a safer spot. We are not sure how things are going though because as we looked at the pool where some of the hatched turtles are living it was obvious that some of the tiny creatures were quite dead and others were struggling. But last night apparently we missed an event because people who ate at Johnny´s Beach side restaurant saw a turtle come in to lay its eggs. Two groups told us about this - perhaps tonight we should go over there for a beer on the off chance.

Further back in the sanctuary we wandered through concrete enclosures with some very languid and indolent looking caimans slumbered in the heat. They are suck prehistoric looking animals, these alligators. Thy are not huge, maybe only 5 or 6 feet long, but they look like they would love to take bite out of a leg or two. In another enclosure were some big iguanas, also basking in the heat, while a third enclosure held a whole crew of green lizards, all one atop another in a great pile of green.

Last night we had dinner at a really good restaurant, where the food was not only tasty but also quite well priced. We ate with our friends from Mendocino county and enjoyed good story telling. They have recommended a place on Lake Atitlan where we are going to reserve a place. It sound quite idyllic, as it climbs the cliff above the lake with gorgeous views and even an opportunity to swim in the lake which is 1000 feet deep (yes, there are three zeroes in that number).

Tonight we will probably ate at the same place we ate last night but will go over for that goodnight drink at Johnny´s and hope for turtles. And if not we can still have a nice Cuba Libre (rum and coke) or a shot of ílegal mescal, three varieties available at higher and higher prices.

We are off tomorrow back to Antigua and another night at our lovely hotel there and then we will make our way to Lago de Atitlan. We have to figure out if we can get our ticket changed to the lake from Guatemala City which we had booked already. If not, I guess we suck that up too. We will take the opportunity to get more money, although I think we can use our bank card in Panajachel, the gringo town from which everything on the lake is accessible.