Manila and Boracay

We were in Manila for 4 days before we headed for Boracay. While we were there we did a little sightseeing of course and lots of wandering. Here are a few images for you to enjoy.This is Santiago Fort with good old Santiago Matamoros - Santiago the Moor Killer - shades of the Camino!

And Geordie on the bridge over to another section of the fort.
This candle rack sat outside the prison cell where Rizal, a hero of the Revolution was imprisoned before he was taken to be executed. From another cell, a set of bronze steps on the ground lead to his execution spot.

Geordie stands outside the Manila Hotel - scene of his first experience of getting money changed in the Philippines in 1959 when he was here for the Boy Scout Jamboree.

A jeepney on the streets of Manila. These modified jeep buses are still made in the Philippines and travel set routes on the streets of Manila getting people all over the city.

Dragon boaters on the sea. For our dragon boating friends in Canada.
A set of police shields outside the US embassy in Manila - I was yelled at for taking the photo, but luckily the guard didn't come over to confiscate my camera or demand that I delete the photo.

A mausoleum at the Chinese Cemetery. The cemetery is very well cared for and the ancestors are honoured by their families regularly.

An alley way within the cemetery.

A grave decorated with strips of coloured paper - November 2 is the Day of the Dead - we think there were many family visiting at that time.

Another mausoleum within the cemetery.
Flowers growing in the cemetery. A photo from us to honour all the people resting here.


Sculptures near the Ayala Museum and outside the Greenbelt Shopping Centre in Manila.

Appetisers at the Museum Cafe. The dark things in the dish are salted dried fish. The rolled things are pork skin, but fish flavoured. The thin strips are curried crispy chips and the vegetables are in a soy sauce.

Our lunch at Museum Cafe. Thai spring rolls and fish cakes - a sprig of lemon grass spears the fish cakes. The sauce is sweet chili sauce mixed with mayonnaise.

On the way to Boracay.
Our life boat suspended on the outrigger of our boat.
An idyllic view of the beach.
Kite surfer on Bulabog beach across the island from our resort.
Fisherman with their small throw nets.
Geordie in his new Maui Jim sunglasses - reflecting the beach.
Walking on White Beach in Boracay. The rocklets appear to have a bonsai on top of each one.
Orchids growing in a yard near the beach path.
A slim-hulled outrigger in the Sulu Sea.
Sunset from the beach. Glorious colour, glorious boats

Lunch at Zhu - a Chinese restaurant on the beach.

SMB - San Miguel Beer. The local standard. (I found Moosehead Beer and Molson's on a menu at the Hobbit House Restaurant but it costs about five times as much as SMB!
Art on the beach.
Kids playing.
Oh, look, a picture of Nigel on the beach too.

Suiting up for the dive - the dive belt at 7 weights. The instructor had 2!

It takes 2 to get me ready.
I'm breathing from the tank! Honest!
Into the briny!
Going under!
Back from the depths.
A celebratory beer at sunset with oil-lamp.

The dance of joy for Nigel's first Scuba adventure and his return from the deep!

Boracay Island - Food and Scuba

If anything can be said of the people of the Philippines, I think the fact that they smile all the time would be on the top of the list. It is so wonderful - Thailand calls itself the land of smiles, but certainly the Filipinos give them a big run for the money. And the vendors on the beach road here in Boracay do not bother tourists constantly as we have experienced in other countries. When we say "No, thank you", that ends the exchange. Certainly we see them again later and they ask again if we want one of their watches, the pearls, the sunglasses, the island hopping experience, snorkelling or even renting ATV's but again, a polite no and a smile is all that is needed.

Boracay is really quite wonderful. The beach area could be in terrible shape - there is a long long area of restaurants, bars, hotels, massage shops, dive shops and anything else you might think of, but they are all back lining a little sand beach path, facing a line of palms. Beyond the palms, the beach itself, with its white sand is pristine. There are no long lines of beach beds as you find in Europe, no palapas as in Mexico, just the beach and a few people frolicking in the water - it's surprising that there aren't more of them doing that, because the water is wonderful - crystal clear, turquoise blue and backed by a line of boats that also do not (and are not allowed to ) encroach on the swimming areas. They are kept in line by police I think, and if they come to close they are sent back in.

My trips for snorkelling and scuba were wonderful. The DiveGurus dive staff were wonderful and always concerned with safety. The day I went snorkelling I went with a Dutch couple who were scuba diving - along with them and three of the dive staff we had a good time, and I even snorkelled with the divers into a little cave where there were bats although I was a little too nervous to see any.

Then it was they who convinced me that I should try diving for real. So that afternoon, after we got back and I had a chance to chat with Geordie I agreed to go out. Turned out that the Dutch couple were to be our neighbours at the Hotel Isla Boracay where we moved and we spent some good times with them and another couple from Germany.

The first night we were at the hotel they invited us to dinner. We went first to a fish market where we bought 5 kilos (yes 5 kilos) of shrimp and then two small lapu-lapu (a white fish) which we then brought to a restaurant where they prepared the food for us. We had the fish with a tangy mango sauce and the shrimp with half in garlic butter and the other half in some sauce in a coconut sauce I think. Here's a picture - note the platter of shrimps is only one half of our order. You can tell Geordie liked them by the second picture. He's licking his fingers, don't worry.

(At the table on Geordie's side are Oliver and Simone from Germany, and on the other side. Inge and Martin from Holland.)






Of course you really need to see picture of my diving experience. There are photos of me suiting up, and then underwater. I've got other suiting up pictures on my camera but for now I'm using the photos that Martin (our Dutch friend) took with his underwater camera.











And of course for Nemo fans, here are pictures of the beautiful Clown Anemone Fish which is so popular thanks to the movie "Finding Nemo".




And one more of me. Just because.

Manila - Cemeteries and Museums.

Hope you enjoyed our adventure with the laughing police. They kept saying that the 2 of them were Manila's finest of the finest. The cars are labeled "Manila's Finest" and it also appears on the crests they wear on their sleeves.

Yesterday we headed out on the LRT to see the Chinese Cemetery. Geordie misread the info in Lonely Planet and we got off at the wrong stop and walked forever in the heat through not the best area. In fact it was more like the worst area! Nigel did not complain too much. The cemetery is huge and amazing. The mausoleums are huge 2 story affairs for the rich Most have bathrooms, a kitchen and even bedrooms for the visitors.Geordie was there in 1959 and had to show Nigel. The biggest mausoleums are on streets and between those streets are 4 foot wide alleys and 100's of smaller places. While we were there we saw 2 funeral processions complete with lmarching bands. The mourners wore white and had white sashes. Some of the mourners marched behind the hearse holding long white sashes attached to the car.

After our visit to the cemetery we walked through a rather run down area and along a very busy road where we sometimes had to step into the road when the sidewalk disappeared. Good thing we are getting better at avoiding cars that want to run us down. It seems that drivers have no use for pedestrians - we might be walking across the street, but the car does not slow down - we are expected to be gone by the time the car arrives where we were. After the stress of walking then catching the LRT to Chinatown Nigel needed coffee so he chose MacDonalds - well he really wanted an ice cream, the coffee was just an excuse.

We were looking for the restaurant called MXT Tea House which came highly recommended by Lonely Planet. The food was very good and of course we ordered too much and ate it all - beef with broccoli, salt and pepper squid, delicious and savoury fried vegetable dumplings and of course, lots of tea. And for a surprise, we got a tiny ice cream cone as a freebie at the end of our meal.

We spent the afternoon at Robinson Place Mall. Huge. We are now Smart Buddies. After an hour in the Smart shop we got SIM cards for our phones. The cards cost $1 Cdn whereas our Rogers card cost $40. The Canadian phone companies sure have us by the throats.

Today, Tuesday Nigel insisted that after the LRT experiences of being a sardine that we would travel to Makati (another district) by taxi. So easy and quick and cost about $2 Cdn. Makati is a different world from where we are staying. It is clean, it has trees and shrubs and very expensive things. We went to see to the Ayala Museum. It was great. The history of the Philippines is done in 60 dioramas. There is a huge collection of SE Asia ceramics and there was also a special exhibit of a collection of gold body ornaments made in the Philippines in the pre Spanish era.

The pottery was all from the Chinese trading era of the 10th to 13th centuries. Some of it was very fine celadon ware which for me was very reminscent of the work of Bernard Leach who was a potter from England who went to Japan and with the potters there, became a brilliant potter who brought his skills back to England and developed fine ties with the Japanese. Somehow I have the feeling that the Japanese were inspired by the Chinese because I saw such similarites to their work. Oddly enough there was an article on Leach in the Japan Airlines In-flight magazine which I enjoyed reading since I had learned about Leach years ago and was glad to see that his legacy lives on.

Back in our area, after another taxi ride men on the street started to whisper in our ear. Years ago when we first traveled in SE Asia drugs were offered by whispering as one walked by. Since we arrived it has been happening again BUT they are saying "Viagra" or "Cialis". Just because we have white hair they should not suppose too much. It is most disconcerting!! I am sure you all will laugh though. Wait until it happens to you! They are only trying to earn a living.

Of course between the time we arrived back in our area, and were desposited in front of Robinson's department store and this message, we got our fill of money changers and happy, wonderful policemen. After the days adventure it seems a perfect time to look for a beer.

Close encounters - rip-off artists and police in Manila

We have had 2 great days since arriving in Manila and this afternoon was the most exciting. We are having a problem using ATM's as most banks only allow us to withdraw about $100 Cdn in pesos. Our bank in Canada charges $5 for that privilege. I must get BMO stock. We did better today at the main branch of HSBC which allowed us the equivalent of $900. Because we are heading to the smaller islands where there is little access to banks and money changers we needed to get some more cash.

We have US dollars with us and tried to change some at Citibank. Since we don't have an account here in the Philippines they don't allow this, so off we went to a black market money changer (as the bank officer recommended). On the Money Changer street we were led to a place by a man who offered us a great rate. The women who ran the place worked out the exchange, counted it asked us to count it too, and we exchanged money. No paper work!!

Nigel then went shopping and Geordie went back to the hotel where he counted his money again before putting it away. He was shocked to discover that by some brilliant sleight of hand he now had 10,000 fewer pesos than he was supposed to. Being good Canadians, we hadn't counted it a second time! Panic time! What to do?

Geordie ran off to find Nigel, calling him on the cell phones we had arranged yesterday and we met up easily. I felt that as good, trusting Canadians we should go to the police. The security guards at the shopping centre seemed reluctant to help, but finally gave us the phone number of the local station. One of the security guards suggested we needed a fixer! Rather than go out into the street and look for a likely big guy, I called and was told we needed to come to the station, so off we went and after realizing that the traffic was too bad we walked there and made our report.

After hearing our story, the police chief sent us off with two great policemen who were very funny but ready to get justice for us. When we arrived the police had us demand our money and then had a little chat with the woman, asking her name, and suggesting that she might want to make things right. Geordie did most of the talking and did not yell at all which often happens - he loses his cool easily.

The police pushed and demanded names. Meanwhile the woman was being a little sullen and looked unhappy, but was playing with her calculator. Finally she offered us P 8,500 to get rid of us. She said that she was doing this because the rate she offered was too much. I did not argue as I was getting most of it back. The police told her they were reporting her and it better not happen again. The 2 police men were great. We were laughing in the car and it was great traveling in the back of a police car. They used their siren to get cars out of our way and took us back to the station where the police chief made out a report to sign. He also gave us some good advice - never go to a money changer that doesn't have a name (ours was called Money Changer!) and always count your money after it's handed to you if the changer has had their hands on it after you've counted it the first time.

The two police officers who came with us were great. On the way back the driver started singing "Bay Boys", calling himself and his partner the bad boys who would protect us. They were very proud of themselves and told us that we were right to see them and that if we had any other problems to come back. They also showed us both their vision statement and their mission statement - which they followed to the letter - making sure the city was safe for its citizens.

So here we had money stolen and 50 years ago Geordie was pick pocketed of all his money the second day at the Boy Scout camp. I was left penniless. He too was taken care of in Manila although he did not get his money back. Nothing else bad happened during that trip so I suppose we are safe.

The people here really are quite wonderful, except those evil women. Everyone smiles. The little boys and young men call us Joe and ask us questions - "Where are you going?". They are just chatting and being friendly. When we go to a restaurant or coffee shop a second time we are treated like royalty. I am so glad that the money changer episode tuned out in a positive way as it shows that this country really is a great place to visit.

The Philippines

I'm giving Geordie the first word on the blog this time. He deserves it as you will discover when you read his words. This trip is one he has longed for ever since he moved in with me in 1979. (Gee, only 30 years ago.) And here's Geordie!

We are now in Manila and it is the evening of Sunday, November 8!

Yesterday Friday we spent 25 hours between beds. Up at 7 am, traveled 19 hours and to bed in Manila at midnight. The international date line and a time zone change of 16 hours and it is all confusing. But if you think of us we while we are here we will be 16 hours ahead of you. So at 9 am PST it will be 1 am the next day here.

Our flight to Tokyo was 10 hours. We had 4 hours there and then the flight to Manila was 5 hours. That was much faster that my flight here 50 years ago to attend the Scouting World Jamboree in 1959! That flight took 45 hours with numerous refueling stops. It was before the era of jets. Our route from Vancouver was via Anchorage, Northern Japan, Tokyo, Okinawa and into Manila. I have be dragging Nigel around showing him "my Manila". Sure has changed. There are huge high rises and an LRT!

We are staying in the Malate district 3 blocks from Manila Bay. We used the LRT after breakfast to go to Intramuros, the old Spanish walled city and the Santiago Fort. The LRT was easy to figure out. The city within the walls was quiet in comparison to the rest of city. Most of that part of Manila was destroyed by WW II so the buildings are 1945+. We had lunch at the Manila Hotel on the Bay. It is still the classy hotel in the city. When I was billeted here after the camp I used the reception desk to change my travelers cheques. The people I was staying with had access to a Mercedes and a driver. So nice to glide up to the hotel door and have the car door opened by the door man. The meal today was quite a bit more expensive than our hotel room in the Malate area. It was a buffet of Filipino foods and very good.

Last night we were picked up at the airport. I had arranged that service through our hotel. After we checked in out we went into Saturday eve on the street near midnight. Lots of dancing girls and boys trying to get us into bars. This is not the best section of the city but certainly lively and very safe. Of course you would not expect us to be in the Ritz area would you? Nigel would not let me be out long as he wanted to go to sleep.

The last typhoon was 7 days ago and there is no sign of it. The place is dry, 30 C and 100% humidity. We were both very wet as we walked all over the place today.

It is 7:30 pm and we will now wander out for the evening. Planning to go to Max's Restaurant. It is a chicken place built in 1945 and I ate there in 1959 with my Filipino family. Hope the food is just as good as I remember it. After maybe Nigel will take me out on the town. He is sitting beside me now yawning so I bet that idea is not a go.

It is great being here and you will hear more from us. Nigel is planning to do his travel blog and he tells me he is going to post this message to it. Is that plagiarism?

The way home

We are on the last day of our two months sojourn in Central America. Today Geordie made me walk a couple of kilometers to the old fort where we explored a little (admission free!), then we walked back through the local market, very busy with folk doing their shopping. Somehow the sight of fresh meat lying on a wooden counter in the full air often makes me think being a vegetarian just might be the better way, but tonight I think I´ll still have the Alabama style ribs for dinner. (Sorry James).

After our hot and dusty walk we got back to the park and hired a coach and two for another tour of the city, taking in many of the sites we´d seen already, but in the luxury of our own carriage with a coachman and two lovely hard working horses to do all the heavy work for us. The coachman acted as tour guide too, telling us about the important sites in Spanish as we travelled the streets.It was nice to be a tourist and to have other tourists taking photos of us as we drove by.

This has been a wonderful trip for us, We have enjoyed all the places we have seen, there have been no disasters, although we have had a couple of colds which have put us under the weather for a time. I also had a long lasting cough which I didn´t talk about. It got tiring. Geordie and I laughed (ruefully?) when we saw the sign on some building that said,"if you have had a cough for more than 15 days, you may have tuberculosis." Oh, I don´t think so. But yesterday at the market in Masaya I had a coughing fit that lasted for about 20 mintues. It was a little weird.

We did a tour of Masaya, the craft town near here yesterday all on our own. We walked down to the bus area and found one going to Masaya so hopped on and paid our 20 córdobas each for the pleasure of sitting on relatively comfortable seats. But we were dropped off on the highway, and pointed to the centre of town. It was a hot dusty walk, and part way there we took a taxi and asked the driver to take us to the lagoon side so we could see the volcano across the water. Then we walked back into town, wandered the large old stone fort that has been turned into the craft market (didn´t buy anything), then found the bus station (another long dusty walk to another big dusty field) where the bus was as usual waiting for us. This was not such a comfortable bus, an old Canadian school bus with very worn seats with stuffing hanging out, and thank heaven the windows open in these buses so that at least when we were moving there was a breeze to cool us down. This was a more local bus so stopped to pick up and drop off passengers where ever they wished. It dropped us in the bus area and we walked back to our hotel and had a nice soak in the pool later in the afternoon.

So tomorrow we go home. We have only six weeks then to prepare our bodies for the Camino because once again we are setting off to walk, in May and June. Some of you will be disturbed to know that we are planning to walk separately, I´m sure. But I have wanted to walk the Camino by myself and Geordie must go at the same time so he is considering continuing the walk he did on the Via de la Plata by himself a couple of years ago. We will also take the opportunity to visit with Bertrand and Giorgio in Torremolinos again too. How wonderful to have friends in far places.

We have certainly enjoyed our travels in Central America and I think we have been pleasantly surprised by Nicaragua. It seems the country has come out of it´s bloody war with a positive outlook on the future and less of a militaristic view than El Salvador. It compares in that way with Guatemala, although we have seen fewer guns here than we saw in Guatemala, El Salvador and Honduras. We must remind ourselves though that most, if not all, of the guns we saw were for our protection, or the protection of those who re involved in money collection in some way or other, so it is in fact a safety feature.

You´ll be hearing from us after we get home. I will be looking forward to telling you about my plans for the camino, and sharing that journey with you too.

Thank you all so much for sharing our journey with us again. It has certainly been our pleasure and thank you for your encouragement of our messages as we travelled. It is so wonderful to be able to make these connections.