Mui Ne

Eleven years ago when we were here we stayed at the same hotel we are in now, but everything has changed. Except the wind. Every day we wake up to calm seas, calm enough for swimming, but by mid-morning the wind has picked up. The wind-surfers and kite-surfers are in their element then.

Along with the water sports come the instructors. These young local men have the most incredible back muscles. 

Their school is next door and offers lots of equipment.

Early morning sunrise. 

That's when the fishermen are out in their odd round boats, coracles as they are known in England.

Although there are normal looking boats too.

The beach scape is limited since the winds have shifted sand away. The hotels along this area have built sloping walls to maintain their property.

Note the contrast in waves from morning (above) and afternoon (below).

When we were here last there were few restaurants or services except for the windsurfing schools. Now the place has been invaded. By Russians in particular. 

And the ubiquitous Spas. Where they dry their towels over the conveniently placed motorbikes. 

And apparently they are expecting brides to be shopping while they are visiting the beach. I'm not sure this display would convince many brides that here's where they'll find that perfect dress.

We took a trip on the local bus to the village of Mui Ne which is several kilometres beyond our hotel.

A couple of the coracles minus their fiberglass shells.

And a woman repairing a net.

The fishing fleet is huge. They go out at night and light the horizon like a huge waterborne city.

These young women were merely bobbing in the water. Like most Vietnamese women, they enter the water fully clothed. 

We found one restaurant which serves excellent food with style! Here's one of the amuse-bouche we were given. Watercress soup in a shot glass accompanied by a slice of grilled polenta with watercress foam.

And this is the one we received last night. Barley risotto with Bok Choy foam and tomato essence.

On our first visit we shared a pizza, which i neglected to photograph even though it was unusual since one of the garnishes was sliced potato. It was very good - thin crust the way they do it in Naples. My main on our second night there was this slow-braised beef with onion jam on a bed of carrot purée, celery and two vegetable chips. 

Geordie had spezzatini with beef and beans. These were a kind of gnocchi.  

On our third visit, last night, along with our barley risotto we both had tenderloin. It was delicious although there was a little mix-up. Geordie ordered his medium well with a mustard crust while I ordered medium rare with a truffle glaze since I don't like mustard. Of course they came the wrong way.  No matter. The garnish was green beans and truffled mashed potatoes. 

And we had a grand conversation with the chef Federico from Padova, near Venice. He's a big little man and heavily tattooed. He'd just shaved his head. And this was his last night for the season. He heads back to Saigon now where he will hope to pick up work. He's definitely good. We are eating there again tonight even though Federico won't be there. We'll have pizza and pasta rather than the expensive beef. (Oh, last night's meal, two tenderloins, the amuse-bouche and a bottle of a nice Italian red - $50.00. And a licorice liqueur after offered by the owner Stefano, from Trieste.)

Moving right along. We have had several unusual toothpastes. One had salt in it. This one is lemon-mint with Vitamin C - an acquired taste. 

And here is some colour to brighten your day. These flowers grace a tree outside the restaurant where we have had breakfast most mornings. The blooms stand about five inches tall. No doubt someone can name it for me.