Sunday, November 25, 2007

Pssst, Wanna buy a camel? Cheap?

We've been on the road for several days with little time to write you. We've been through Pushkar, onto an amazing palace hotel in Jojawar, and now in Udaipur. And no, I didn't buy a camel in Pushkar. Sorry, no camel rides when we get home.

Pushkar is an incredible place, with so many temples, bathing ghats, shops, people, holy men, and yes, camels. The lake at Pushkar is very holy - the place where Brahma dropped a lotus flower if my memory is correct, and it is also one of the very few places where there is a temple to him. Apparently his wife found him dallying with fair maids and cursed him so that people would worship him only there.

Our hotel in Pushkar was at the outskirts of the village - a ten minute walk to the lake past camels, cows, shops, travel agents, the bus station and heaven knows what else. Of course the streets were crowded, with so many pilgrims there for the festival. The fair takes place at the week leading up to the full moon.



At the camel grounds one is awarded with the sight of thousands upon thousands of camels, not there to furnish kitschy pictures for the tourists but for trading and selling. Camels are working animals as we saw on our way through Rajahstan where camel carts are more prevalent than horse carts. Many of the camels are caparisoned with jewelled cloths, wear necklaces of large beads and have patterns shaved into their hair. Some of them too have been blackened around the face or neck, no doubt to increase their desirability to the buyers.



And of course with a fair comes fair grounds. There was a ferris wheel, the usual rides, all gaily painted, and people everywhere - even cotton candy for sale. No corn dogs, though. We went into the arena too, to see the activities there. Camel carts hauling loads of tourists wander through, the horses on show are brought out to be seen (splendid horses, real beauties), and there are acrobats and tightrope walkers. There was even a race among the women which had them racing from the starting point, to a line of water jugs which they then carried on their shoulders back to the start. I'm disappointed to tell you that a local Pushkar girl was not the winner - I do believe an English woman took the honours. No Canadians were entered so we don't know what might have happened if...

Around the lake there are, as I said, many Pilgrims, who come to wash their sins in the holy waters of the lake. The lake is completely surrounded by the ghats, steps which lead down, and one wonders where the entry point of the water is. The ashes of the dead are also placed in the lake - Gandhi's ashes were brought here.

We had Puja ceremony on our second night in Pushkar. We sat on the edge of one of the ghats with our feet bare, a plate next to us with salt, rice, rose petals, red and yellow powder and a coconut. The Brahmin priest led us in a recitation to purge us of sins and to bless our friends and family and then used the paste to smear our foreheads, and placed rice there too which stayed until we washed it off later.

7 comments:

  1. Hi guys, heading to your neighbourhood today since our massage therapist is just across the street in the tall tower.

    Lovely seeing you with your temporary bendis!! And did you manage to get through a Rajastani fair without coloured powder being thrown at you?? The stains never come out (of cotton, anyway).

    Nigel, your writing on this blog is delightful. I sure wish I could get you to travel in Canada and write for my wee magazine!

    Abrazzos,

    Randall

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  3. Looks good on you! I do hope you're having the time of your lives.

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  4. Devan loved the photo of you and was very curious about the "spaghetti sauce" on your foreheads.

    D and I looked at my slides of Africa the other day and he saw lots of camels. He also enjoyed your photo of the camel.

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  5. As always, i love your comments about food. But I must say that I am not envious, except for the ice cream part. Snow and cold here. Winter has come.

    You know what I am going to say - keep safe. Though i am worried less about you in India than I have been on some of your adventures. Love - judy

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  6. You are on the way to making me change my mind about travelling to India.
    Spaghetti sauce as your caste mark...so funny!

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  7. Finally had a chance to catch up on the past week of your travels. What an amazing journey. Love your detailed descriptions of life on the road - and off. Not sure I could handle some of the experiences but admire your tenacity. Glad you are managing to stay safe from vermin, political upheavals and the like. Your account of the monks took me back to Tibet where I spent last Christmas. Will think of you relaxing at your beach resort and humming carols next week. Look forward to your future postings. Take care, you two.

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