Saturday, April 18, 2015

Teruel

Teruel is the smallest province of Spain with the smallest capital city, which has only about 35,000 people. (Sounds a bit like PEI). It's a 2 1/2 hour train ride from Valencia but is also the only capital city with no direct train link to Madrid, the capital of the country. 

I don't know if they have an inferiority complex, but the grand column in the centre of their Plaza Mayor also holds probably the smallest bull, proudly called El Torico. 

It's a lovely little city though and proud of its heritage. There are gorgeous Modernismo houses in the city which have been lovingly preserved. It's a style from the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th centuries.l

There's a lovely row of columns along the main plaza too, which provide shade. There are a number of cafes along the porticos which provide either morning or afternoon sun. 

More Modernismo from a higher viewpoint. 

And a lower viewpoint. 


A tiled panel show the Medieval city. 

But the city is modern and vibrant too. 

There is a story here of two lovers, one fallen on hard times. She vows to wait for him to get rich but after five years her father marries her off. 

But he comes back, finds her married and falls dead. Then she falls dead at his funeral. Sounds vaguely familiar. They lie today side by side, but chastely not touching because she honoured her husband. 


They were in their twenties - sadly in this statue she looks like a 40 year old and he looks like a rather mature Gordon Pinsent. 

But he shop sells many love tokens, including wine called Kiss of Wine. You can buy it in Canada. Next time you pop the cork on a bottle, think of this thwarted love. 

The cathedral has a tower in Mudejar style which was a mixture of Christian with Islamic elements. There are several towers with similar colour and decoration. 

Like this one in front of the cathedral. 

And this one called El Salvador which I climbed. Only 120 steps. 

Inside the cathedral some richly decorated chapels. 

And gorgeous ceilings. 

With a Madre y Niño. 

This gorgeous retablo was caved by an artist in I think the 14th century. Each section is actually caved from one piece of wood. It's phenomenally detailed. 

Here's a close up. Honest, all of those figures from one piece of wood. 

I always look for Santiago. He's on the left in this window. 

The walls were painted with these medallions. 

A gorgeous frame. 

More Gorhic arches. 

Loved this rather modern looking character. 

And this suspicious looking woman. 

More ceiling and carving detail. 


And a view out over the city from the diocesan Museum. 

With bells. 



The Romans were here. They lef some mosaics. 


I think this was the sheild of the ruling duke or count at one time. 

This beautiful portico was on an upper floor of the Museum. 

With a view to the cathedral. 



This beautifully carved piece was a gift to a favourite wife from one of the Musulman rulers when they ruled this area, probably in the 8th to 10th century. 

And some even earlier work. Runic writing from the Ibero-Celt inhabitants. 

This pottery made me think Picasso wasn't first. 


Iron smithing was decorative as well as practical. 

When we arrived at the train station, we could have walked up these early 20th century steps to reach the old town. But look to the spot where the car is parked. That's an elevator and made our trip much easier. The stairs are inspired by the Mudehar towers. 

A lighting element on the stair way. 

And some tiling detail. Yes, that's a bull's head. 

Brick work with clay tile details. Each is different. 

And here the steps from the bottom. I walked down to get the view, but took the elevator up. 

Back to the cathedral - some gorgeous ironwork from a local artisan. 

And heavy grill work on private houses. 

A lovely fountain detail. 

Oh dear, we found another museum of religious artifacts. And beautiful ceilings. 



An altar. 

A Piéta. 

Tile work. 

Carved angel. 

And a beautifull painted pillar. 

A harpist. 

St. Sebastián - really, that's what the label said. 

A rather more gruesome St. Sebastián. 
St. Anne and the Virgin Mary. 

And Mary with her father. 

And Joeph with the child Jesus. 

This incredible piece is elephant ivory carved in the Philippines. 

Under El Salvador tower. 

And inside. 




I left quickly after claiming the 120 steps because a sign warned that the bells would be ringing about four minutes later. 

Bell detail. 

Stepping down. 

There was rain so the umbrellas were out. 

This remarkable instrument is a Rahab. It as displayed in the tower with a legend, that it was made by a prisoner using bits of wood and leather he found in his cell. The music he played was overheard by the ruling Musulman who freed the man because of the beauty of the instrument and the music. 

And a painted panel with which to end my rather long post. 































































































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